Jeju-do part 2: Jeju-Si

After three sun-drenched days in Jeju’s southern city: Seogwipo, we headed north along the coast toward the more metropolitan city: Jeju-si. There is an island bus that is on a loop route around Jeju, providing the perfect means to hop on and off when a sight, view or orange stand tickles your fancy. There is no all-day ticket from what we gathered so you have to pay the 1,500won fee at every pick-up, which adds up if you are like me and EVERYTHING in Korea tickles your fancy!

Our first stop was the sunrise peak Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, the result of a volcanic eruption over 100,000 years ago that caused the peak to rise from the sea and form a massive crater spanning 600m in diameter at its top. The steep stairway up to the crater is brutal in Jeju’s muggy July heat, but well worth the buckets of sweat for the fantastic view of the island and sea you are awarded. If you are like us and carrying your packs, the very kind folks at the ticket office will gladly hold them for you while you make your ascent. Stop number two during our trip north to Jeju-si was the lava tubes. At only 2300won for an entrance, the naturally occurring lava tubes provide a mysterious place to cool off in Jeju’s summer heat. A sturdy pair of walking shoes and head-lamp are recommended due to the cave’s slick, dark atmosphere.

Once in the city limits of Jeju-si we spent the evening wandering the harbour and through the fish market. Although not quite comparable to Busan’s fish market, the Heanyeodivers present a fascinating tradition and history making Jeju seafood worth a try. Heanyeo are Korean female divers, a tradition that conflicts with Korea’s strong preference for men and values the ability for these women to provide for their family and continue a long-standing source of cultural pride in Jeju. Ancient shrines indicate that women have been diving off of Jeju’s shore since the beginning of food gathering in Korea, long before a common era.

There are not many options for anything besides Korean food in Jeju-si, not a problem considering the seafood is fresh and delicious, but we did come across an Indian restaurant with outstanding food, great atmosphere and …wine…! In my top three reasons for leaving Korea this coming Fall is the shortage of quality, affordable and available vino, so when this Italian bred girl finds a restaurant fully stocked, chances are she will be back for more. Bagdad cafe is across the street from city hall, tucked in among the boutiques, nore-bangs and PC cafes and certainly worth a hunt. After a leisurely meal our party of six meandered into an underground nore-bang (singing room) and as per usual the night disappeared into a melodic, soju drenched haze.

Our flight back to Busan was late in the afternoon of our last day, giving just enough time for one last dip in the ocean at Geommeollablack sand beach. Although swimmers are not allowed to go out past shoulder deep without frantic life guards pouncing in a whistling fury, the beach is quiet, the water divine and the locals so inviting and friendly that we wished for one more day of island life.

Leaving a vacation is always difficult for me, but that is the wonderful thing about expat life: it’s all an adventure filled vacation! There has been so much travel and play thrown into the mix of this year that my short lived career as a middle school teacher has flown by and I am left with tan toes, a full passport and fulfilled nomad soul….well almost fulfilled.

Off to Japan tomorrow to see for myself if the Korean/Japanese feud really exists and just how different their cultures are. Happy summer vacation to all you teachers, travelers and playahs.