Grab the Bull by the Horns: Korean Festivals and Other tales from the Bull Ring

It seems like every weekend Korea is celebrating, and because the way we party says so much about our culture, celebrating in Korea has given me an excellent sense of the country at large. Three weekends ago I attended Korea’s anual Bullfighting festival held in Cheong-do. Having lived in Spain for a short time several years ago, I was prepared for all the gore and violence that one of these events typically yields. I was pleasantly surprised after discovering that Korean Bullfighting is done with the same meticulous skill as most hobbies in this country and that they had left out the spears, focusing instead on each trainer’s ability to reason with his Bull. This festival is  currently among my top 3 favorites in Asia and follows the traditional food, drink and celebratory customs I so enjoy when attending Korean functions.

Cheong-do is not easy to get to from Ulsan and requires a train transfer in Deagu. No problem if you wander into the party car! Tired of sitting in my seat being hushed by ticket checkers, I wandered instinctively toward the action. I found a train car painted in psychadelic greens and yellows, boasting a full bar, karaoke rooms and video games. Inside were naturally about fifty expats lounging around like a scene off of “That 70s Show” making this one of the most entertaining train rides of my life! Once in Cheon-do there are buses that shuttle festival goers to and from the stadium. Tickets were 5,000 Won each and can be purchased on site.

The fights were set up in heats with weight matched bulls, so they started slow and by the evening included all the heavy hitters. Korean Bullfighting lacks a matador or spearing and instead relies on a series of techniques including the head-butt, the push and the horn lock and lift. Some of the fights took twenty minutes, some two. A highlight of the events was when two bulls, after about five minutes of pushing against one another, looked up and calmly walked away from the fight as if agreeing to disagree. Their trainers tried to coax them into the fight but these bulls were just not interested and trotted out of the ring into their opposing corners. Aside from the bullfights there is plenty to see and do at the Ceong-do festival from watching the belly dance performances to buying fresh bull meat or consulting with a fortune teller. We even came across two Korean men who had gathered quite a crowd and were dressed in drag, balancing pottery on their un-shaven chins and shouting loudly in hangul to one another as Matt and I scratched our heads as to what their act could have been about?

Matt has, in recent months, attended some unique festivals including Daeborum which takes place on the first full moon after the lunar new year and is held in order to drive out the evil spirits of the coming year. The festival surrounds a giant structure built to resemble a tree, made from wood and branches, that is lit on fire while party goers dance around with other flaming objects, eating, drinking and being merry. I missed out on this one but was fortunate to see some of Matt’s priceless photos capturing the festivities. Another one of my favorite festivals is held during Korea’s Chuseok fall harvest holiday. There are events held all over the country but we chose to celebrate on the remote Hong-do island (accessable from Mokpo by ferry). The festivities took place in a small town square where a karaoke stage was set up and prizes were awarded to the best performance. For those following the blogspot posts back in the Fall, you may remember our group of newly arrived English teachers performing the YMCA to a crowd of forty Koreans in the small fishing village on this holiday weekend.

Whatever the month and wherever you find yourself in Korea, there is bound to be a celebration taking place. Some of the upcoming festivals we plan to attend include:

• The Spring Cherry blossom festival
• The green tea festival in early May: http://www.clickkorea.org/eventsnnews/event01_view.asp?idx=1397&eventKey=1&menubar=1
• And the Mud festival this coming summer: http://www.mudfestival.or.kr/english/festival/festival1.php

Happy celebrating in whatever country you find yourself this Spring season!